Linen is a natural fiber from the flax plant that can grow in many different condition, it can even grow far up north as well as in soil that is normally not used to grow food. Flax plants can absorb high amounts of carbon and make the soil healthier. Even non-organic linen does not require anywhere near the amount of pesticides and insecticides as conventional cotton plants uses, but organic linen is the best choice. Retting is the process where you get the flax separated from the plant. This should preferably be done by a natural process, not using chemicals (ask for natural retting). Good certifications are GOTS (organic) or European Flax (guarantee traceability, no hazardous chemicals but not organic).

bergstrand material GUIDE ranking*

Organic linen is preferred, conventional linen is approved.


Preferred materials are considered to be the most environmentally friendly, sustainable, and ethical options for clothing production. These materials are often made from natural, renewable resources, and are processed using eco-friendly methods that have minimal impact on the environment. These materials are typically more expensive than synthetic alternatives, but are considered to be worth the extra cost due to their positive environmental and ethical impact, as well as longevity.


Approved materials may be less expensive than preferred materials, but may not be as ethical or sustainable in their production. While approved materials are not considered the best option, they may be used in clothing production as long as certain standards and guidelines are followed.
* The Bergstrand Material Guide Ranking is only a guide. Our consultants can help with accurate assessments of your brand’s use of materials.
Photography credit:
Tsuyoshi Kozu

Do you need to accurately assess the


used in your collections?