According to Bergstrand, for Shein to have any chance of mitigating its emissions while maintaining growth post-IPO, it would have to meaningfully adopt circular practices to generate revenue separate from the production of new polyester-based products.

We hope decision-makers will consider the lifetime impact of synthetic textiles, such as microplastics that are known to cause harm to the environment, animals and humans, as well as the textile waste created by making fast and cheap fashion,” says Lisa Bergstrand, founder of Bergstrand Consultancy

Bergstrand explains why this is so bad: “The processing of these fabrics involves thousands of chemicals. Some of these can be harmful, both to the makers and the wearers of the garment. Wearing and washing elastane also releases microplastics, which end up on the highest mountains, deepest oceans, and in our own bodies.”

Traceability is key to ensuring that scaling won’t dilute your brand identity,” says Bergstrand. “Map your supply chain from the start and establish a Supplier Code of Conduct before scaling. Choose your partners and factories carefully and visit them before placing any orders.”